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March 7, 2005:
(0.5 hrs.) Spent sometime this evening just cleaning up the shop
and getting organized. I also finally got around to reapplying
primer to the machine countersunk holes in the main wing spar. The
reason I needed to add primer to these a second time is because a while
back I ran the micro-stop cutter on the all the holes again after I
decided the dimpled skin was not sitting quite flush.
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March 11, 2005: (2.0 hrs.) After cleco'ing the ribs into place I began riveting the ribs to the main spar. These rivets need to be bucked because there is no way to get may hand squeezer around the main spar. |
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Here I am using an offset rivet set in the my 3x gun to get to the rivet heads. |
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Although the offset rivet set works well, a straight set works better! I removed the cleco's holding the ribs to the rear spar so that I could flex the ribs to the side and get my rivet gun with a straight set into position. This worked great. |
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Here is a shot of some of the rivets I set. I learned quickly that when riveting through the thick spar, you need to have the pressure turned up on the gun to around 65 PSI or else you are more likely to get 'smileys' on the manufactured head. Also, placing blue painters tape over the end of the rivet set helps prevent smileys. I think I had to replace about 7 rivets before I figured out how set the pressure correctly to drive these rivets. |
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After I finished riveting the ribs to the main spar it was time to rivet the rear spar in place. These can be reached with a hand squeezer. My new longeron yoke worked great for getting around the flanges on the rear spar. |
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The outboard end of the rear spar takes flush head rivets to allow for the aileron bracket to sit flush. The rest of the rear spar rivets where standard 470s. |